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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.